Finding My New Favourite Corner of Cornwall: Chapel House, Penzance
by Lulu Townsend, www.lulusluxurylifestyle.uk
There was a time when my Cornish happy place was Westcroft Guesthouse in Kingsand, a gem that, unfortunately, is no more. Its loss still stings. But Cornwall has a way of compensating, and it has done so generously. My new sanctuary is Chapel House in Penzance, and I fell for it, and the town itself, the moment I arrived.
Pulling into Penzance feels like reaching the edge of the known world in the best possible way. The sea greets you at the end of the train line and there’s a real sense that everything stressful has been quietly left behind somewhere around Plymouth. It’s no surprise that people arrive here and simply never leave. That’s exactly what happened to Sue, the owner of Chapel House. She came down from London in 2008, discovered the building on Chapel Street, knew instantly it was hers, and set about transforming it. By the time the renovations were nearly finished, it seemed almost wasteful not to share it, and so Chapel House was born.
From the outside, the Grade II listed building cuts an elegant, unhurried figure. Step inside and it’s a different story entirely: vibrant, personal and completely alive. Glossy chalk-white floors reflect the light, the walls are hung with original work by local artists, and the sitting rooms are both warmed by open fires and furnished in Sue’s signature palette of purples, yellows and oranges. Nothing here feels like it was specified by a designer and signed off remotely. It feels layered and genuinely loved. Downstairs, the garden-level kitchen and dining space is the heart of the house, where you’ll often find Sue going about her day, somehow co-ordinating effortlessly with the flowers around her.
The six rooms and duplex suite are generous in every sense: well-proportioned, beautifully designed, with large bathrooms that offer both baths and showers in several cases. Sustainability has been woven into the details throughout: bamboo loo paper, organic sulphate-free toiletries, wooden beds and underfloor heating.
Sue also acts as the in-house concierge, and she’s an excellent one. She has maps covering virtually every corner of the UK and can point you towards the best walks, restaurants, shops and hidden corners of the area, whether you want a gentle stroll along the seafront or something more ambitious. Her team, Kate, Catie and Lucia, are warm and attentive, and nothing is treated as an imposition. Fancy afternoon tea? No problem. Want the sauna or hot tub fired up mid-afternoon? Give James an hour’s notice and he’ll appear with a DryRobe in hand. And if you’re in need of some proper restoration, a treatment with Rachel from Women’s Balance is the answer. She describes her approach as gently guiding people back to balance, leaving them feeling lighter emotionally and ready to face the world again. Afterwards you’ll want nothing more than a fire, a blanket and a cup of tea, which is entirely the point of Chapel House.
Breakfast runs from eight until ten and is a proper affair: freshly made green and berry juices, bacon sandwiches, avocado on toast, fruit salad, yoghurt, granola, sourdough and a selection of Sue’s own handmade jams. A word of warning: skip any lunch booking. You won’t need it.
When you do venture out, head first to Morrab Gardens and then follow the promenade the mile down to Newlyn. It’s flat, it’s coastal, and it works wonders. Penzance itself has a quality that sets it apart from much of Cornwall. It feels real. Less overrun with second homes, and populated by people who actually live and work here. The creative energy among the younger generation is noticeable: new restaurants, independent shops and cafés are appearing, and discerning visitors are starting to take note. I had a brilliant meal at the newly opened Barbican Bistro, pig cheeks and crispy aubergine with feta cheese, run by young owners Jack and Jay, who opened in January to immediate popularity. Booking ahead is already essential.
Getting there is half the fun. The Friday night sleeper from Paddington is a genuinely enjoyable way to travel and you arrive Saturday morning already feeling like you’ve had a small adventure, especially if you’re with children. The regular service takes around five hours along a scenic, if leisurely, route. My recommendation, though, is to drive. With St Ives, Carbis Bay and the Scilly Isles ferry all within reach, having a car means you can follow your nose and be spontaneous.
Yes, Penzance is a long way from everywhere, and people will tell you so constantly. But that distance is precisely what makes it work. It hasn’t been smoothed into the same shape as everywhere else. It still belongs to itself. I loved it so much I’ve already booked appointments with local estate agents. Sue, I suspect, would find this entirely unsurprising.
Rooms from £205 per night, including breakfast. www.chapelhousepz.co.uk